The sea caves and rock arches at the east end of Korakas — swimmers in the turquoise shallows below the cliffs

The Area

Korakas · Rodakino · the south coast

Where you are

Korakas is a pebble beach below the village of Rodakino, on the south coast between Plakias and Frangokastello. The water is deep and clear, the cliff at the east end is full of caves, and there are no resorts anywhere near it.

Rodakino

The village above

13 km

Frangokastello fortress

40 km

Rethymno old town

The caves

A short swim from the beach

The three caves the house is named after are in the cliff at the east end of the beach. The water on the way out is shallow and clear, and the tall sea stack just offshore marks the spot.

Straight down on the sea stack at the east end of Korakas, the umbrella rows and the house behind the beach
High over Korakas — the umbrella rows on the grey pebbles, the rocky point, and the coastline of south Crete running east

The coast

Headlands, coves, and a road that ends at the water.

Beyond the beach

Gorges, a fortress, and tavernas

Olive groves climb from the beach into the hills. Inland, the Kotsifou gorge road cuts through the cliffs. West, the Venetian fortress at Frangokastello is 13 km away; east, the coast road runs to Plakias.

Rodakino, the village above the beach, has tavernas for the evening.

Looking down over Korakas bay from the cliff — the beach curving along the turquoise water

The village

Rodakino means peach

The village sits above the beach in two parts — Ano and Kato Rodakino, upper and lower, split by the gorge that comes down to the sea. The lower village is a couple of kilometres up the road, and it has what a week needs: a supermarket for supplies, a bakery run of a morning, and tavernas for the evening. There are more tavernas on the beach itself, and Polirizos, the next beach west, is sandier and shallower if you have small children.

The table

What you eat here

Two women at a harbourside taverna table in Rethymno — the Venetian lighthouse and fishing boats behind them, ripe tomatoes and vegetables on the cloth

The food is Cretan and it is close by — dakos on barley rusk with tomato and mizithra, Sfakian pie with honey from the villages just west, mountain tea and herbs from the hills behind the beach, and a small glass of raki to end the meal. The tavernas in Rodakino and on the beach cook it; the supermarket keeps the rest.

Cretan dakos — a barley rusk topped with grated tomato, crumbled mizithra cheese, capers and olives on rocket
Dakos
Sfakian pie drizzled with honey, a plate of sesame cheese pie behind it, and a carafe of raki
Sfakian pie & raki
Hands jarring wild mountain herbs gathered from the hills, baskets of greens on the table
Mountain herbs

When to come

The season, plainly

July and August

Hottest, busiest, and the beach umbrellas are full. Book early; minimum stays are longest.

May, June, September

Warm and much quieter. The sea is swimmable from late May.

October

Quiet and still warm — the sea holds around 23–24°C, and the beach empties out. Our own favourite month.

Winter

We stay open all year. Rates drop well below summer and the coast belongs to the villages again.

Getting here

The drive south

Straight down on the house and the gravel yard behind it, where the road arrives — the boardwalk crossing the pebbles to the umbrellas

From Plakias

About 20 minutes west along the coast road.

From Rethymno

About 40 km over the mountains — roughly an hour.

From Chania airport

Around 1¾ hours; airport shuttle available on request.

Parking

Free private parking at the house — the road ends in the gravel yard behind it.

The beach

Dark pebbles, not sand — water shoes make getting in easier.

Supplies

Supermarket and bakery in Rodakino village, about 2 km up the road.

Frangokastello

The Venetian fortress, about 20 minutes west along the coast.

Open in Maps

A good base for the south coast

Most of it is within an hour’s drive, and the beach is at the door.

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